Anyone else feel like they need a doctorate to fully understand their energy account??

Anyone else feel like they need a doctorate to fully understand their energy account??

Anyone else feel like they need a doctorate to fully understand their energy account??

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25 thoughts on “Anyone else feel like they need a doctorate to fully understand their energy account??

  1. You are paying a single flat rate for electricity regardless of time of day, so some bills would be much more complex.

    The summary has all the details. The first bit is the meter. They read your meter on Sept 6th as 8123 kWh. The previous reading was Aug 6th at 7147 kWh. Subtract to find you used 976 kWh during your August billing cycle.

    You pay 2 different prices for power. “WHOLESALE PWR COST” is the actual price of generating power. “DISTRIBUTION COSTS” pays for things like maintaining power lines.

    pwr cost is $0.087592 / kWh (8.76 cents/kWh) x 976 kWh is $85.49

    distribution is $0.029998 / kWh (round to 3 cents/kWh) x 976 kWh is $29.28

    Then you pay a flat $15.00 to be connected to the grid and 23 cents for whatever operation roundup is. For 23 cents a month it’s probably more expensive to find out than to just wonder.

    Your bill is simple, so you can add the 2 costs of power together to get $0.1176/kWh (11.76 cents / kWh) as your total cost for power. Multiply by how much power you plan to use to know what your bill will be (plus the $15 flat fee).

  2. $0.117 / kWh + a flat $15 / month. That’s very inexpensive, so good for you.

    By comparison, my electric bill breaks down the charges in much more detail, and, since the state forces them to disclose how much money they spend on political lobbying, I know that 13% of what I pay for electricity is spent on lobbying the government.

  3. We’re huge fans of EVs, but they do raise energy prices on your monthly bill if you’re charging at home. A great way to cut costs and reduce your carbon footprint even more is with solar. All in all your bill is actually fairly low given national standards.

  4. This is the simplest electric bill I think I’ve ever seen. You should see the SCE bill, it does require advanced degrees in order to interpret exactly what they are charging, how they are charging, when they are charging you for electricity.

  5. I am trying to figure out and calculate my future EV charging costs. Does anyone else have Farmers Electric Coop, and can say if there is reduced costs at night, or can speak to their plans. And am I right in saying I am paying about $.11 per kwh?

  6. Yours is downright simple.

    Last month’s reading minus this months equals kWh used this month. Multiply that by the cost for the electricity itself, again for the distribution amount. Then add the fixed costs. Mine is *way* more complicated with time of use, multiple price tiers based on amount used, Solar sell back, credits for various programs, etc.

  7. ignore all the fees and taxes, there’s nothing you can do about that. Look at the price per KwH and see if there’s something you can do about that.

    I did that calculation last year and decided the time was right for Solar. I still think I’m right, but now I’ve got a debt to service 🙁

  8. Just ignore all the fees and credits and look at the bottom line is what i do. total $/total kWh. A more advanced analysis would you would ignore any “fixed” charges independent of usage, this tells you the value of energy savings methods or the cost of your vehicle per mile.

    So by this formula:

    (130 – 15- 0.23)/976 = 11.75 cents per kWh. Good. If you get 4 miles per kWh on an EV, it’s costing you 2.93 cents for the juice. (well ok, add 20% charging losses).

  9. What are you complaining about?! You are being sarcastic aren’t you?

    We pay over 40 cents / kWh base here in the highest tier. Our bills are way more complicated that yours. Can somebody explain what “Power Charge Indifference Amount” means (PG&E).

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